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Monday, 23 December 2019

PicoMicroYacht in Thailand

PicoMicroYacht in Thailand ... I wish ... but I did the next best thing ...

I have not been able to PicoMicroYacht in the last few weeks, but had the opportunity to go to the Phang Nga Bay in Thailand and sail a Wharram Catamaran for a few days.


James Wharram sailing a Wharram

James Wharram first started designing catamarans in the 1950s, based on his research into ancient Polynesian designs.

Sixty years ago, he sailed one of his early designs across the Atlantic from New York to the River Conwy in North Wales, the first Catamaran to make this voyage. Since then Wharram’s have travelled the world.

My Wharram was based on the Hitia class, lengthened from 17 feet to 26 feet. It was built by Maxim Jurgens, originally from the south Netherlands, establishing a fleet of four Wharram’s for hire in southern Phuket, the other ones larger and more sophisticated.


Maxim Jurgens


 I was to sail into the Phang Nga Bay, famous for scenic islands and sheltered water.

The Hitia had just a bare deck, with the option of sleeping in a tent either on the deck or the beach.

When I arrived, Maxim was there to greet me and provide instructions, with his helper, called ‘Popeye,’ who indeed appeared to be a blond Germanic version of the character.

Maxim explained how to rig the Hitia. His explanations reminded me of Q instructing James Bond, speaking tersely and enthusiastically in an accented version of precise English (he could have said ‘now pay attention PicoMicroYacht,’ but I am obviously imagining this).

As a result, I remembered absolutely everything he told me, which proved very helpful later on. He told me he personally liked most maintaining the boats, which is just as well because everyone else benefits from him keeping his treasure going.


The gathering storm

The afternoon was nearly finished, and it was soon to be dark, so I quickly put up the tent. A storm was brewing, and I had just time to finish when heavy rain and thunder started, the ferocity of which I have rarely experienced in the UK. I lay in the tent counting the time between the flashes and the thunder, wondering what it would be like if I received a direct hit.  About two hours later I could relax, read a book and sleep.

The following morning, there was a north easterly force four to five. I rigged and set off, finding I could just point high enough to clear the bay. I had been warned that Wharram’s are poor at pointing into the wind, but I was making good progress. I passed a lighthouse close on my port bow and then saw from starboard an array of large fishing boats crossing my path.

It was then I recalled the advice on how to go about in a Wharram: ‘get some speed up, put the helm hard over and keep the jib tight and let it back.’  It did not work. The Hitia just went into stays and sat there nonchalantly. I had another go, but the same happened. Because of the proximity of the lighthouse, I turned to starboard and bore away, eventually gybing and then gybing back again to continue on my way (later I mastered tacking – the trick is to be ruthless with the technique).

Soon I was close hauled again, tacking up Phang Nga Bay. The Hitia seemed to gather up pace and keep going effortlessly for about ten miles until I was approaching an island called Koh Rang Yai. At this point the wind disappeared and I motored the last mile to the west side of the island.


Moored at Koh Rang Yai

This was where the Hitia came into its own. Maxim had told me that most of the coast was sand or mud, and beaching was easy – find an island and anchor protected from the prevailing wind. I was warned not be fooled by the late afternoon sea breeze, blowing in the opposite direction. Beaching the Hitia was convenient in the day, but I was to discover the beach also attracted bugs at nightfall, so I learned to anchor off by about 100 metres.

I also found I could anchor close to the beaches and swim ashore, the tidal streams being slight.

There followed several days of setting sail in the morning and returning to Koh Rang Yai for the night, the beach deserted after nightfall.

I relaxed into the rhythm of the sea and wind, made easy by the predictable wind directions and strengths.


A traditional long-tail fishing boat passing by

The twin hulls tracked smoothly and effortlessly, a slight weather helm counteracted by using a rope system to fix the course. The two hulls meant a stable platform to move around on.


Standing whilst under way


 In the distance were the scenic islands

On the second night, I was woken at 2.00 am by the light of a long-tail fishing boat, about 50 metres away. In my stupor I thought they must be pirates, so I stood up on deck and made a presence. But I soon woke up properly and realised the light trained on me was just curiosity. Satisfied with this, I went back to sleep.

The days passed quickly, and I returned to the base, at the end of my voyage passing through a small race which the Hitia cut through with ease.


Rough water as part of the race

‘Popeye’ was there to greet me, positioning himself in his dinghy by my mooring buoy.

A short clip captures the Hitia sailing



Maxim's fleet

http://www.sailing-charter-thailand.com/ourcats.html



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